Day 6: Pors PeronLast modified 2023/08/18 21:02
“C’est bon, on peu parle francais” “i like very much to talk with the English, well, the people that speak English, not the Americans, I cannot understand them” “Ouai, it’s not the Queen’s English” “Ah the Queen” “Oui, it is sad” “yes” “a shame” “he makes how the Prince?” “the King madam, he makes how the King " “yes the King” “who is next Harry or the other one” “William?” “oui, William” “I don’t think Harry qualifies anymore” “I like very much the queen, and also Harry Potter”
Aurièle was a great host, she recommended that I go to the port to have dinner, I left and walked through La Jardin des Explorateurs, then crossed the bridge to the other bank of the river which hosts the Castle. I wandered through the center, though it was 19:00 many shops were open and I purchased The Pest by Albert Camus. The book is in French, and it’s clearly beyond my reading level, but I’ve started reading it several times over the years on my phone, so I thought at least I would have a head start on it.
I meandered down to the port, descending what I suppose was a cliff or a steep hill at some point, but is now a huge walled road. Of course at the port there was nothing but sea-food restaurants, and being a vegetarian I wandered back up the huge road to find a pizzeria or an Indian. I couldn’t find an indian, I found a pizzeria, was hoping for a large beer, the largest they had was a 33cl bottle, which hardly touched the sides and was gone in 1 minute while costing almost 6 euro. My eyes drifted to the restaurant opposite, which was an Indian. I bet they served large beers.
Feeling disappointed with my dinner (to be fair the pizza was nice) I went back to the Jardin des Explorateurs and admired the view while necking back a can of Kronenberg.
I didn’t sleep terrifically well, it was very hot in the bedroom, at around 2 in the morning I needed to use the toilet, I walked in darkness to the closet toilet in the hall, opened the door, didn’t switch on the light. The toilet seat was open, and “wait, that’s not the noise it should make…”. The toilet seat was down. I hope I tidied up sufficiently. Never assume a toilet seat is open in the dark.
In the morning I said goodbye to Aurièle and we had some small talk, I didn’t mention the toilet incident, and she left me a good review on AirBnB, so I think I got away with it.
I made my way down to the port and found a Paul’s bakery and ordered some toast and a coffee and sat down planning my route while being able to see my bike through the glass window.
The first part of the day was reasonably sunny, I crossed over a few suspension bridges and past beaches and harbours.
The second part of the day was rain and it’s been the dampest day so far. As I was cycling in the rain through the town of Douarnenez two girls on touring bicycles came round the corner, seeing me the first exclaimed “Ouaaaaaai!” I beamed and then the other took the first’s lead albeit with slightly less enthusiasm.
I stopped in this town in the supermarket, which fortunately had a sheltered entrance where I can wheel my bike in from the rain. I was pretty exhausted by this point, which I demonstrated by leaving my telephone at the counter, a young guy ran out after me to return it (though there is little to no chance I would have left without it).
“I’m just looking at your sacks” the lady said “they’re practical” I said.
After 6 hours I resorted to my dwindling set of poems to pass the time, I managed to recite around 80% of a T.S. Eliot, and less than that of Ulysses. It’s quite satisfying to read poetry aloud, raising your voice above the howling wind that’s blowing in your face “I will not rest from travel, I will drink life to the lees…” “…to sail beyond the sunset and beds of all the western stars until I die”. I think my voice carried in the wind though as I got some strange looks from some oncoming cyclists.
Behold Scarweather - the Red Ship
Today I reached my 100k target, the is better than it was. It is no clear that I can in no way reach Santander without an extra ordinary effort or trains. I have decided to aim to sail back from St. Malo to Portsmouth - so I will carry on along the coast before heading back overland towards St. Malo or aim to get to Redon where I may be able to get a train.
Internet access in the rain