Day 8: ScaérLast modified 2023/08/25 11:11
I read from The Pest, having to check at least one word per page in the dictionary on my phone, and then slept unevenly. I slept in later than I would have liked, only rising at 08:30 and making my coffee and eating some cereal with water, it was then to pack up and leave in the usual fashion.
I wasn’t feeling super great in the morning, which perhaps was a sign for how I would feel towards the end of the day. The sun was shining again, perhaps aggressively so, and I started mumbling to myself as I was looking at my map, trying to find the bridge
“il est ou la pont?” “il n y a pas” “mais il y’a une batteau la, mais bon, la pont est plus-haut” “C’est im-pont-ant” (haha)
What this is
Talking to myself is also a sign that I may not be in the best state mentally but I carried on through La Pont de l’Abbe taking the main road (which had a cycle path nonetheless) and avoiding the coastal path. I wanted to make up some time and at this point I had seen enough and it was good to cycle on the fast road fast.
It is old the bike
Ater taking the main road, I decided to hit the coast road again, as I stopped to take in the sea view an old man approached me
“Il est vieux le velo” “pardon?” “le velo, it is old no?” “12 years old” I said “it’s a rando! where do you come from? comment tu l’a?” (how come you have it) “England - I lived in Paris for 3 years” “the shop doesn’t exist anymore” “i know” “we have 2, we went to Nepal! c’est le bon velo” “yeah, it keeps going”
He recognised the branding on my bike “Rando-Cycles”, the shop I got it from in Paris was quite famous, and I guess it’s now part of history.
A waypoint today was the town of Concarneau, less because it was a town and more because it’s the beginning of the V7 cycle route.
I found out yesterday that the V7 is a greenway - which is code for “what used to be a train line is now a cycle path” which is code for “long cycle path with few or no hills”. This cycle path runs all the way from Roscoff to Concarneau and I was excited to join it.
Excited as I was I almost did not stop in Concarneau, but decided as I was there I may as well have a quick look. I ended up grabbing lunch - another Crêpe and another large beer - the beer was a Blonde and had a fruity flavour and it was very cold and good - especially as I was so hot. I had trouble ordering “I would like the Crêpe Oof Fromage” “Je vous ne comprende pas” “Oof Fromage” “Oof” “perhaps you mean egg sir? - Uff”. “Oui, Oof Fromage - c’est que j’ai dit”.
Exiting the town I found the greenway and it was what I hoped for… for a while at least. It rose with a gentle slope for some kilometers before descending equally far and gently and I was able to keep a good average speed, however it seems then that the route diverged from the old railway and I encountered some hills.
Unfortunately my knee starting hurting again, and became progressively more of a problem until it was practically unusable. I had intended to achieve around 105k and perhaps rest in a Gîte d’Etape (which is something like a Hostel) but with the heat, my knee and general exhaustion I decided to stop earlier. Fortunately I found a great campsite which is rather dedicated to cyclists.
It’s a converted railway station, with camping, a librarie, cafe, camping and… an escape game. “Je peux parle anglais si tu veux” “Ouai, pourquoi pas” and she started speaking in a perfect English accent “actually I’m from Devon my family moved her 13 years ago”. Being exhausted I actually found it quite hard to switch from French to English and I struggled to string a sentence together.
The camping has one of the “vélo repair stations” and a kitchen, bathroom and, importantly, a tent pitch which is shaded by trees, they have Wifi and I’m typing this blog post in the cafe with a plugged in laptop, feeling quite knackered and looking forward to a lie down.
Tomorrow I’ll continue on the V7 before joining the canal path east in the direction general of St. Malo.